Longtime blog readers may recall my questioning the merit of Sam Mendoza's wunderkind status; I did end up attending his Boston Fashion Week 2007 show as planned but quite honestly couldn't sort my thoughts out well enough to do a review at the time. Yet, while Sam's vision seemed somewhat underdeveloped, there was something about his work that made me think I should keep him on my radar. When BFW 2008 rolled around, I decided it was time to stop being part of his passive audience and instead volunteered to be a dresser. In doing so, I gained insight into Sam's perspective: We met minds on the subject of clothing origami, in both his designs and my experiments. (For what it's worth, being a dresser for Sam was far more interactive and exciting than it was for another designer's show.) Additional visits to his mini-studio at Stil revealed Sam's maturing skill; for instance, to counterbalance the deconstructed exteriors of his gowns, Sam has started to apply French seaming to his frock innards. (For more picking of the designer's brain, check out New Brahmin's full length feature.)
Clearly, Sam's strength lies in his ability to grow. His most recent presentation, at the Brattle Theatre last month, showcased a distinctly evolved and coherent approach. The show kicked off with a film collaboration with Future Machine. In its surrealism and darkness, the short had a distinctly David Lynchian atmosphere. But, although it focused on aesthetics and special effects, it lacked in storyline and apparent direction. One thing that bothered me about the context of the film in the fashion show was that it began without any introduction—as in, a title. And while a title can be shown at the end of a movie, the short also ended rather abruptly: No credits rolled, and there was an awkward 10-30 second pause of inactivity between the film's conclusion and commencement of the runway portion. (Interestingly, the short is posted for viewing on Future Machine's site; there, a title and credits roll at appropriate moments. Apparently it's called "Interlace." Off the subject, I love that Future Machine used a Squarepusher track for ambiance.)
Fortunately, there was some continuity. As the models began their march through the audience and up onto the stage, blue static played on the background screen—a carryover from the digital snow on TV sets in the film. The clothes themselves, as I said earlier, were an enormous step up from previous collections. Design concepts were much more deliberate and advanced; I particularly liked the refined color palette of champagne, rich tan, dark royal blue, chocolate and mauve, in the form of silk and lace. And the styling, done by Liana Peterson of New Brahmin, added so very much: A few brown Leschi Leather cross-body purses made their way onto more casual looks, but what really added the finishing touch were the Millie and Me costume necklaces. Crafted by Camilla Gallacher out of chains, stones, linens and ropes, the jewelry nicely counterbalanced the flounce and flow of Sam's wares. Topped off by circular tulle headpieces, the outfits—and, really, the collection as a whole—were by turns romantic and modern, whimsical and luxe.

All photos by dreamecho.